Light buying tips

[Yannick Hagman]

No longer updated. Check: http://filmtools.wikia.com

Cost options: [low][medium][expensive]
Quality options: [low][medium][high][highend]
Resell value options: [low][medium][high]
Set up speed: [low][medium][high]
Quality and cost raletes to every product itself and not an average. I estimate what you get for your money!!!
To keep the list as short as possible I try to avoid crap.

Beginners: Do not touch lightbulbs with bare hands. Use a soft tissue. Finger oils will shorten it's life.

Thungsten Pars and small narrow lights:


Dedolight DLH4 Aspherics 150w
These guys have a hallogen bulb (which means they output the equivilent of 600w fresnel light) and you can set the focus angle from narrow to medium. They are great for edges on headshots and accents, atmosphere, etc. All that I know is that everyone who has ever worked with them absolutely loves them. Including me. They come in different power options. The best thing is if you can get them with dimmable ballast for every light. Ballasts are unfortunately not international. (Pacific/USA/Europe). The three light ballast is just that, but not dimmable and more expensive! A big plus is that DLH4s are very small.
Temperature: Thungsten (Daylight filters of the brand divide the output by 2 - or one f-stop)
price new with ballast: $760
costs: [expensive]
quality:[highend]
setup speed:[high]
resell value:[high] [Link] (http://www.dedolight.com/www/dedolight/default.php?la=0&pg=00000401030100&id=DLH4&acc_id=&section=0)


Arri 300w thungsten fresnel light
inkl. barndoors
price new: $370
costs: [medium]
quality:[highend]
setup speed:[high]
resell value:[medium]


Arri 650w thungsten fresnel light
inkl. barndoors
price new: $500
costs: [medium]
quality:[highend]
setup speed:[high]
resell value:[medium]


650w thungsten fresnel light by Coollights
inkl. barndoors, Yoke, Baby Mount, Bulb
price new: $265
Voltage: 110v only
Temperature: Thungsten
costs: [low]
quality:[high]
setup speed:[high]
resell value:[low] [Link]

(http://www.coollights.biz/cltf0650-650w-compact-tungsten-fresnel-p-57.html)
Blue Line 650w thungsten fresnel light by Imagewest
inkl. barndoors
These guys are chinese Arricopies, I can't say anything about durability (they also have some sweet kit deals)
price new: $290
costs: [low]
quality:[high ?]
setup speed:[high]
resell value:[low] [Link]

(http://2692883288.monstercommercesites.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=65)
1000w thungsten fresnel light by Coollights
inkl. barndoors, Yoke, Baby Stand Adapter, Bulb
price new: $320
Voltage: 110v only
Temperature: Thungsten
costs: [low]
quality:[high]
setup speed:[high]
resell value:[low] [Link] (http://www.coollights.biz/dtw1000-1000w-compact-tungsten-fresnel-p-58.html)


Blue Line 1000w thungsten fresnel light by Imagewest
inkl. barndoors
These guys are chinese Arricopies, I can't say anything about durability (they also have some sweet kit deals)
price new: $320
costs: [low]
quality:[high ?]
setup speed:[high]
resell value:[low] [Link] (http://2692883288.monstercommercesites.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=65)

Bigger Thungsten Fresnel Lights:


Arri 2000w thungsten fresnel light
inkl. barndoors
price new: $900
price used: $650
costs: [expensive]
quality:[highend]
setup speed:[medium]
resell value:[medium]


Fluros / Kinos (Softlights):


Kinoflo Divalite 400
220 Total Watts, 1- Diva-Lite Fixture, 1 set of bulbs, Integral Barndoors, Mount, Eggcrate, Gel Frame, Diffuser, Lamp Case, Travel Case (120v version). The lamp is bank selectable and dimmable.
price new: $1120
Voltage: 110v (Universal version is more expensive)
Temperature: Thungsten and Daylight (you can change bulbs)
costs: [medium]
quality:[highend]
setup speed:[high]
resell value:[high] [Link]

(http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/258599-REG/Kino_Flo_KIT_D4_120_Diva_Lite_400_One_Light.html)
Coollights CL-455P Portable 4 x 55w (220w)
Divalite Copy, bankselectable. 1 set of bulbs included. Barndoors. I will include the Eggcrate and mount in its price. There's no Diffusor, no Lamp Case and no travel case included. The lamp is bank selectable. The manufacturer also ships a dimmable version (but you won't end up much below a divalite then).
price new: $485
Voltage: Universal
Temperature: Thungsten and Daylight (you can change bulbs)
costs: [low]
quality:[medium] to [high]
setup speed:[high]
resell value:[low] [Link]

(http://www.coollights.biz/cl455p-cool-lights-portable-watt-softlight-p-67.html)
Coollights CL-655P Portable 6 x 55w (330w)
Divalite Copy. Bankselectable. 1 set of bulbs included. Barndoors. I will include the Eggcrate and mount in its price. There's no Diffusor, no Lamp Case and no travel case included. The lamp is bank selectable. The manufacturer also ships a dimmable version
price new: $660
Voltage: Universal
Temperature: Thungsten and Daylight (you can change bulbs)
costs: [low]
quality:[medium] to [high]
setup speed:[high]
resell value:[low] [Link] (http://www.coollights.biz/cl655p-cool-lights-portable-watt-softlight-p-68.html)

(http://www.coollights.biz/cl455p-cool-lights-portable-watt-softlight-p-67.html)
Coollights CL-SFT1 200w Softbox Kit
Probably the most affordable instant softbox option around. Only comes in American 110v
Temperature: Thungsten and Daylight (you can change the bulb $79)
Voltage: 110v
price new: $155
costs: [low]
quality:[medium]
setup speed:[medium]
resell value:[low] [Link]

(http://www.coollights.biz/clsft1-softbox-5600k-stand-p-105.html)
Lowell Rifa Light
Softbox that folds like an umbrella
Temperature: Thungsten or Daylight
Voltage: 120v - 240v
price new: depending on wattage
costs: [medium]
quality:[medium]
setup speed:[fast]
resell value:[low] [Link] (http://www.lowel.com/rifa/)

Thungsten Softlights:

Chimera Birdcage 500w
500w halogen bulb
There is an x-axis stand adapter that lets you tilt the fixture.
price new: $360
Voltage: 240v or 110v
Temperature: Thungsten (you also can screw in other bulbs)
costs: [medium]
quality:[high]
setup speed:[fast]
resell value:[medium ?] [Link] (http://www.chimeralighting.com/dspProduct.asp?productid=296)

Lowcost HMIs:

Coollights 150w
The Cool Lights CL-MF0150 CDM
price new: $460
Voltage: international
Temperature: Daylight
costs: [low]
quality:[medium]
setup speed:[fast]
resell value:[medium ?] [Link]

(http://www.coollights.biz/clmf0150-cool-lights-fresnel-p-63.html)
Coollights 575w
Cool Lights CL-MF0575
price new: $1600
Voltage: international
Temperature: Daylight
costs: [medium]
quality:[medium]
setup speed:[high]
resell value:[medium ?] [Link] (http://www.coollights.biz/clmf0575-cool-lights-fresnel-p-64.html)

LEDs on a Budget:

6x6, 12x12, A4 and A3 sizes available.
Edge lit LED lights
Rosco is selling this guys for double or tripple the price.
price new: $51 - 400$
Voltage: Universal
Temperature: Daylight and Thungsten available on request (ask the seller)
costs: [low]
quality:[high]
setup speed:[high]
[Link]

http://www.luminousfilm.com/images/led-no-frame-small2.jpg

(http://www.luminousfilm.com/led.htm)
Coollight 10x10 inch LEDs
photometrics roughly equivalent to a 600w fresnel (fall-off much bigger).
complete with barndoor's, bag and accu.
price new: $605 (early adaptors get em for under $500)
Voltage: Universal
Temperature: Daylight or Thungsten
costs: [low (for early adaptors)] [medium]
quality:[high ?]
setup speed:[high]
http://www.coollights.biz/images/productshots/CLLED600Cm.jpg


"Don't overlook compact fluorescent lamps (CFL's) as a potential low cost lighting source. Daylight balanced full spectrum lamps are available in sizes up to 85 watts, equivalent to a 300 watt incandescent lamp for brightness. Some of these are specifically designed for photography use and are flicker free. These with a chinese paper lantern make a great cheap soft light."

Some shopping links for CFL's you can use with chinaballs in 110v:
http://alzodigital.com/online_store/...ment_lamps.htm (http://alzodigital.com/online_store/replacement_lamps.htm)
Alzo also makes a decent line of low cost fixtures too.
http://www.verilux.com/full-spectrum...luorescent-cfl (http://www.verilux.com/full-spectrum-lightbulbs/compact-fluorescent-cfl)
http://www.fullspectrumsolutions.com...ent_32_ctg.htm (http://www.fullspectrumsolutions.com/compact_fluorescent_32_ctg.htm)
http://asianideas.com/globelanterns.html

[Peter Majtan]

Nice one - keep them coming... :D

[Yannick Hagman]

That's the last list I make. :) It takes time.

[Pietro Impagliazzo]

My man!

This is a good thread.

:)

[todd folts]

I just got a 3 light kit from image west. used them this weekend and worked great. two 800 w, one 650 fresnell (arri knockoff). tungsten.
the whole kit cost me 500 with shipping. btw: not britek, blue line

www.imagewest.tv is where i got them

[OUinLA]

That's an awesome deal hyalite. Let us know how they perform with more use.

[Yannick Hagman]

http://www.dvxuser.com/V6/showthread.php?t=85829&highlight=alzo&page=6

Do a few searches about Image West and Alzo (Light manufacturer of blue line). These are chinese Arri copies. The quality probably isn't that great like an Arri, but could do their job. Mind that you have no resell value. Where Arris get 70-75% of their new price. I tend to buy quality lights with a resell value. Right after the sentence "we aren't rich enough to buy cheap". If you buy cheap you buy often enough twice and because of the inexistent resell value end up more expensive in the end.

Keep us posted if you got them.

Cheers

[Peter Majtan]

I personally don't worry about resale value (no offense Yannick) as I have never resold any light I got. What ever light I buy I keep it till it dies... I totally agree to buy the best gear You can afford, but not everyone can afford ARRI's. They are great thou, especially if You travel a lot, they can handle lot of (ab)use... :D

[Yannick Hagman]

I haven't either. But I must say both of my lights are top notch. The problem is if you buy something non-usable you can't resell it and have already spent your money.

I consider the divalite copy of coollights myself, but the manufacturer seems not very reliable what the pipeline belongs (they are out of stock for almost half a year currently).

The DLH4 covers my Arri-Thungsten-needs for 150w - 600w and is dimable out of the box. I like to get a third some time. Versatile. I got them secondhand.

[Theta]

While I can't vouch for quality on Coollights (in terms of hard lights), I CAN vouch for the guy who runs the company. I've spoken with him personally, both on the phone and over email, and he's an extremely nice guy and very technically oriented. I doubt he's making anything quite as durable as Arri, but it's obvious how much he cares about his work.

[Yannick Hagman]

I second that.

[Pietro Impagliazzo]

Hey guys, I already have 5 open face lights and 1 1kW Fresnel.
Already have the stands and some clamps.

Now I'm pondering about what other light should I get.

Would a 2kW Softbox complement my kit?
I guess it should serve me well since I don't have any significant source of soft light right now.

Do you guys have any sugestions?
Thanks in advance.

:thumbsup:

[Luke Stewart]

Softboxes rule!

EDIT: Hey check out this website- Some great examples of different lighting setups. I especially like the Interview, Single Person #1 examples.

http://www.lowel.com/edu/

[Pietro Impagliazzo]

After lots of thougts It crossed my mind the possibility of buying two Cool Lights reflectors.

Softbox
http://www.coollights.biz/clsft1-softbox-5600k-stand-p-105.html

2x55 Kino Studio (not the portable one)
http://www.coollights.biz/cl255md-cool-lights-dimming-watt-fluorescent-video-soft-p-103.html

I asked him via PM how much would be the output equivalent to tungsten of the Softbox, he said that would be like a gelled 800W Softbox, would that be right? Is that light enough for indoor use?

What about the 2x55 Kino, Yannick, have you ever used them? Because I remember of you mentioning them to me.

Thanks everybody.

:thumbsup:

[Pietro Impagliazzo]

Today I just set up my 1kW fresnel inside my room, and OMG, tungsten really sucks for tight spaces, so hot, so bad.

I need some cool lights!

[Erik Bien]

I know someone who owns a similar BluLine "ARRI knock-off" kit as mentioned in post #5 (I think his is two 650W and a larger 1K): they're very nice fresnels with very smooth, even coverage, and they seem quite rugged, with heavy body castings.

[Yannick Hagman]

Impagliazzo


Softbox
http://www.coollights.biz/clsft1-sof...and-p-105.html (http://www.coollights.biz/clsft1-softbox-5600k-stand-p-105.html)

Is the only one you could get (currently on stock), Maybe not the most professional lighting solution but, much softlight for the buck.

For the above light 800W seems right, yes.

What about the 2x55 Kino, Yannick, have you ever used them? Because I remember of you mentioning them to me.

No I haven't ever used anything of him. Shipping to Europe is too expensive.

But I recommend strongly not to get the 2x55 but the 4x55 or better 6x55 non dimmable instead. You can always have to much light, but if you have too less you're doomed. You will need those 4x55 even for indoor if the light is not used as atmosphere light. 6x55 is even better and you can always switch 2 bulbs of if you don't need 'em.

[Pietro Impagliazzo]

4x55 non dimming is out of stock! dang
And the dimming one is much more expensive...

I think I'll go with these two, my priority right now is the softbox.
And I'll buy a tungsten bulb too, so I can use it with my other lights.

I was going to buy a 2kW Tungsten softbox from a local brand, but I need some 5600k lights.

2kW gelled to full CTB would give me something like 700W, but I want to stay away from hot tungsten sources! hehe

How about a close-up light? The 2x55 would work... I guess.
You always end my joy when I start talking about close-up lights Yannick!

[Yannick Hagman]

2x55 would work... I guess.It's also out of stock. The problem with coollights is that they are not very reliable with their productline. Only that 200w bulb set is available currently. You will save money in the long run with a 6x55. You can always switch 4 bulbs of if you need 110w (it's bank selectable).

You don't need dimming. Moving the light is easier and less expensive.

[Pietro Impagliazzo]

I'd get the 2x55 non dimming studio.

It's on stock.

http://www.coollights.biz/cl255-cool-lights-watt-fluorescent-video-soft-light-p-30.htm

[Yannick Hagman]

I'd get the 2x55 non dimming studio.

It's on stock.

http://www.coollights.biz/cl255-cool-lights-watt-fluorescent-video-soft-light-p-30.htm

Here it says this page is not available. I dunno. But 2x55w is 110w. That's less than the 200w bulbsoftbox they sell.

[Pietro Impagliazzo]

Sorry, a L missing from HTML.

http://www.coollights.biz/cl255-cool-lights-watt-fluorescent-video-soft-light-p-30.html

[Pietro Impagliazzo]

I think I'll go with only the softbox for now.

I'm heading out for lunch, thx Yannick.

[Yannick Hagman]

Oh, attention! That's the heavy studio fixture. You want the portable for filmmaking.

[Pietro Impagliazzo]

You're right, 16 lbs is heavier than my 1kW fresnel.

That's just bad.

[Yannick Hagman]

Cheap LEDs added. ;)

[MattN]

No love for the omnis or totas?

[Yannick Hagman]

Open faced? It's relatively unknown here.

[Yannick Hagman]

Good news. Richard, from coollights.biz posted his first picture of the LEDs he is manufacturing. They are 10x10 inch, and as he said they will go for less than the flolight 500. So for well under 500$. They are not diable but come as 5600k and 3200k-versions. Dimmable and bank-selectable. I probably will get two of those as soon as they become available.

http://www.coollights.biz/images/productshots/CLLED600Cm.jpg

[Pietro Impagliazzo]

Looks good, but what about the light output?
I'm not familiar with the term diable...

___


Today some stuff I bought from Atek (local store) arrived and I really liked it.

The 2K (1K+1K) Softbox that I ordered is really big (90x90cm) and by having two switches you can use it as a 1K softbox or a 2K.

Unfortunately some internal parts of the softbox were tearing and one of the switches was broken, so tomorrow I'll have to call them and ship it back, bummer. First time something wrong happens with this company... My 1K fresnel is working great.

I also ordered diffusion frames for all my cheapo open faced. Good thing is you can detach the diffusion and use the frame as a gel holder, nice.

Also ordered a flexfill (white and silver) and a jr. tripod for backlighting or any situation that asks for light next to the ground.

http://img221.imageshack.us/img221/4527/atekui9.th.jpg (http://img221.imageshack.us/my.php?image=atekui9.jpg)http://img221.imageshack.us/images/thpix.gif (http://g.imageshack.us/thpix.php) http://img100.imageshack.us/img100/2826/atek2cf6.th.jpg (http://img100.imageshack.us/my.php?image=atek2cf6.jpg)http://img100.imageshack.us/images/thpix.gif (http://g.imageshack.us/thpix.php)

[Yannick Hagman]

Diable means you can dial a color temperature between 3200k and 5600k. Non-diable means that you have to get them either at 5600k or 3200k.

About 400w in comparision to ordinary light I guess. I consider two of them as a divalite substitute.

[Stefan Christou]

Yannick could you put the lumens or lux output of each light? It might be a bit too long TBH but it would be very useful for pairing and comparing. If anyone knows the lumens/lux could you post so it can be added.

LED lights are apparently 2000+ lux but that is a bit non-specific considering the different light sizes. :unsure:

[Yannick Hagman]

Sorry, no time to looks at all these, they are not always provided. Also, it's not very comparable softlight's vs. leds vs. hardlights.

For hardlights I would use dedos or 650's and 1k's. for softlights 330w halogen if possible, nothing less (if you go lower get a birdcage, richards umbrella softbox or even chinaballs). you will need it. LED's: 2 times 10x10 inch at least. HMIs are unpayable for us scarleters anyway.

I have 3 dedos, a birdcage, and a reflector. That is my lighting department so far. :) I will get 2 of Richards 10x10 for sure. But I don't intend to get much more than that. It should keep simple. Many lights need more time and people. I'm not interested in bombastic films anyway.

[Stefan Christou]

I'd love to get some too dedos too, but they're so expensive. Has anyone thought about using photography lights instead? I'm thinking that with the kind of light sensitivity we are expecting from scarlet, we might only need lower output lights.

Also does anyone know what 2000 lux is equivalent too?

I've found this on t' web:
P2/13 240V 800W R7s DXX Redhead Lamp GE
P2/13 DXX 800-T4-4CL 240V
GE Product Code 36953

Voltage: 240V

Watts: 800W

Colour Temperature: 3200K

Initial Lumens: 21400lm

Does this seem about right for an 800w bulb?

[Yannick Hagman]

This are for redheads (open face lights, check ianiro.com). I only recommend them for softboxes. :thumbsup:

Dedo's are expensive. I didn't buy those in one batch. The good thing is you have to buy them once and they should last forever, they are small, and save money for many bulbs.

You'll need at least a kicker for backlight. A dedo or a 650 fresnel will do.

[Stefan Christou]

That's what I'm thinking. An 18 x 24 light panel, a dedo + blue filter, and a couple of cans with daylight florescent bulbs.

I'm pissed that HMIs are so expensive. But why I ask, why?

[Yannick Hagman]

Heavy, seperate ballast, expensive bulbs. And probably because not very much manufacture them.

You'll need lots of colleagues to carry them around. The dedo is probably the most important lamp if you start out. For fill you could use a chinaball. I remember that David Mullen wrote something about that, when someone asked him which two lamps he would use to shot a movie, if he only can use two: He answered a dedolight and a 2k hmi I believe.

[Stefan Christou]

Hey I tried using my TV as a softlight (40"samsung LCD). It worked OK, only enough output for fill but looked like it was outputting white at around 6000k. :hurray:

[Erik Bien]

Use a polarizer and you can dial up or down the amount of light from your LCD seen by the camera!

[David Rasberry]

Also does anyone know what 2000 lux is equivalent too?




Lumens is the direct output of a source. Lux = lumens per square meter.

[Stefan Christou]

Lumens is the direct output of a source. Lux = lumens per square meter.

interesting. those LEDs are a lot weaker than they seem at first glance

[Pietro Impagliazzo]

Hey I tried using my TV as a softlight (40"samsung LCD). It worked OK, only enough output for fill but looked like it was outputting white at around 6000k. :hurray:
Flat panel backlighting is pretty cool in deed.

I was messing with my fresnel here and when I looked at the computer it looked very blue.

On my monitor menu it says 6500K.

[Stefan Christou]

just bought a 5000k 85w 220v fluorescent bulb. I'll let y'all know what I think of it when it arrives

[fde101]

I'd get the 2x55 non dimming studio.


I just ordered one of these yesterday.

If it is as good as it looks like it will be, I just might try to order another one, and maybe even one of the 4x55 or 6x55 units, if I can squeze them in while they are still on sale like this -- won't be able to order again until the middle of next week at the earliest, but it will probably be close to then until this one arrives anyway...

From the pictures they look "portable" enough to me... what is the advantage of the more expensive "portable" version?


My thought is to use the 4x55 or 6x55 as a key light, with a 2x55 for fill and possibly another for background lighting... I could use one of my small pinspots or similar for hair/edge lights for now...

This should give me a good basic lighting setup to get started with?

[Yannick Hagman]

Do you mean coollights? If so the portable are carbon ABS-plastic AFAIK. Not as heavy to carry arround and for film you just do that. The heavier once are more suited for a studio. For background lighting you need a kicker (dedo, 650w or one of the small HMIs from coollights), not a softlight.

[fde101]

Do you mean coollights? If so the portable are carbon ABS-plastic AFAIK. Not as heavy to carry arround and for film you just do that. The heavier once are more suited for a studio.


Yeah, the coollights. Okay, weight difference makes sense, but I think I prefer the metal right now anyway if that's the only real difference. Plus they're cheaper and thus more currently obtainable, particularly with this sale they're running at the moment...


For background lighting you need a kicker (dedo, 650w or one of the small HMIs from coollights), not a softlight.


I have a few open-face lights (actually DJ/stage-style par cans) which will have to suffice for now. Also some (very small, weak) pinspots and so on. One 500w fresnel I picked up on ebay, that smells like paint when plugged in (it was painted right before they sent it out...)

:)


I can't afford it all at once. Would eventually like to pick up an ellipsoidal or two; definitely need to get some CTB gels though...

Actually, I suspect that soft vs. hard for the background probably depends on the situation you are trying to light in and so forth, but it sounds like the hard lights are the more common case then?


Thank you!

[Yannick Hagman]

Yeah, the coollights. Okay, weight difference makes sense, but I think I prefer the metal right now anyway if that's the only real difference. Plus they're cheaper and thus more currently obtainable, particularly with this sale they're running at the moment...

As for the diming, you don't need it and shouldn't. If that counts.

Mostly you want to create a sharp edge on hairs and clothes from behind and there a fresnel works best.

[fde101]

As for the diming, you don't need it and shouldn't. If that counts.

Mostly you want to create a sharp edge on hairs and clothes from behind and there a fresnel works best.

I don't think I brought up dimming; maybe it was implied by the "DJ/stage-style" cans...

At any rate, I've been working on a software program to control DMX fixtures from a computer for stage presentations and such. Not something to market at this point; I simply don't like any of the ones I've been able to find free/cheap, so I'm writing my own to use (for example) for the dramas we put on at our church. I need some DMX-controllable fixtures (dimmers and such) in order to test and work with that software, so the relative grab bag of small lights and such that I have at the moment was bought mostly with that in mind. I have one moving head light (motorized yoke), one "scanner", a few individual RGB-mixing LED pars, one DMX dimmer pack to use with some ordinary par cans, and so on... I'll try to reuse what I reasonably can, but I do realize that most of them will be rarely usable (or at minimum sub-optimal) in most movie settings.

I wonder if I can find barn doors for a standard par 56 can, or even the smaller par 36 cans? The 36 cans would obviously be more for decorative lighting than for the basic light types... the 56 can take, I think, up to a 500watt bulb, so with barn doors, that might be a usable option for a background or hair/edge light? Opening a bit on the large side, though...

[Yannick Hagman]

Nope, it wasn't brought up by you. Just a side note about dimming and fluros. They shift color.

[Stefan Christou]

Hey I got that bulb. It's huge. Just waiting for that papier mache reflector to dry!!

[fde101]

Nope, it wasn't brought up by you. Just a side note about dimming and fluros. They shift color.

Is the temp still shifted if they are at full strength?

IOW, if I have a dimming fixture but keep it at full power, will the temp still be off?

Shifting temp might actually be nice sometimes for the effect...

Just curious though, I don't intend to order the dimming ones right now...

[Yannick Hagman]

Is the temp still shifted if they are at full strength?
IOW, if I have a dimming fixture but keep it at full power, will the temp still be off?
Nope.

Shifting temp might actually be nice sometimes for the effect...
It can be a problem if you use other light sources like fresnels.
All models are bank selectable which means if you have 6x55w (330w) you can switch off 2 bulbs or 4, which gives you 220w or 110w. That's enough IMO.

[Stefan Christou]

yeah other than that you can move the light back or use a net

[holy_handgrenade]

Nope, it wasn't brought up by you. Just a side note about dimming and fluros. They shift color.

I think it depends on the dimming ballast and the CRI factor of the bulbs though.

KinoFlo advertises and boasts that thier 4bank dimmable ballast produces no colorshift.

I think your normal standard bulbs (CRI avg 76-85) a) arent that great for film/video to begin with unless you're going for the flourecent green look, that shift will be dramatic.

With the higher CRI indexed bulbs (95+) the color shift while diming is minimized if not eliminated; as the CRI was a factor in the manufacture of the bulbs to begin with

BTW: CRI = Color Reproduction Index. 100 would be a "perfect" CRI

[fde101]

My CL-255 arrived yesterday. I like it.

I plan on ordering a CL-655 when possible (maybe won't be until January?), assuming the sale price is still good...

I ordered with the daylight bulbs, will do so with the other as well, so now waiting for an order of gels to allow use in combination with the tungsten. Ordering CTBs for the tungsten fixtures too, to go the other way as well...

[fde101]

It can be a problem if you use other light sources like fresnels.

Again, the "effect" might make it useful sometimes -- when done intentionally -- but a similar effect could likely be obtained using 1/8 and 1/4 CTOs/CTBs/etc. anyway, so still not a big loss...

Certainly not enough to justify the higher prices when doing movie work.

It's different in a stage-performance environment where you want to do fades on a live program, but the coollights don't have DMX support anyway, so not a particularly useful consideration here.

[Erik Bien]

I wonder if I can find barn doors for a standard par 56 can, or even the smaller par 36 cans?

You don't typically see barn doors on a PAR can because they don't have a focused beam like a fresnel or ellipsoidal (i.e. Source 4). Instead, to widen or narrow the beam of a PAR can, you'd normally use a different globe: most PAR lamps are available in wide flood (WFL), medium flood (MFL), narrow spot (NSP) and very narrow spot (VNSP), aka "fire starters". The configuration of the globe's built-in reflector and lens determines the shape of the beam. Sometimes a top-hat or snoot is added to further narrow the throw.

[fde101]

Yannick, any plans to add the Coollights HMI-type fresnels to your list?

[Pietro Impagliazzo]

Noob question: Are HMIs cool?

I mean... Do they output any heat?

[Yannick Hagman]

Noob question: Are HMIs cool?

I mean... Do they output any heat?

Oh, yes, very much heat.

I will put the smaller ones on the list soon.

[David Rasberry]

Don't overlook compact fluorescent lamps (CFL's) as a potential low cost lighting source. Daylight balanced full spectrum lamps are available in sizes up to 85 watts, equivalent to a 300 watt incandescent lamp for brightness. Some of these are specifically designed for photography use and are flicker free. These with a chinese paper lantern make a great cheap soft light. Smaller ones make good practicals too.

Some links:

http://alzodigital.com/online_store/replacement_lamps.htm
Alzo also makes a decent line of low cost fixtures too.

http://www.verilux.com/full-spectrum-lightbulbs/compact-fluorescent-cfl

http://www.fullspectrumsolutions.com/compact_fluorescent_32_ctg.htm

http://asianideas.com/globelanterns.html

[Yannick Hagman]

David, I don't read any voltage information. Are they all 110v? or 240v?

Updates:
Coollights upcoming LED and their HMIs

[David Rasberry]

Those are US sites, so I am sure 110v. There are bound to be similar lamps for Euro standards too though.

[Pietro Impagliazzo]

Yannick where did you get the info of the Coollights LED panel? I couldn't find on their site.

HMIs really output heat? Oh my, I didn't think they did...

[Erik Bien]

Yannick,

Naturallighting.com (http://www.naturallighting.com/web/shop.php?crn=621) offers Euro-voltage CFLs.

[Yannick Hagman]

The LEDs come in november:
http://www.dvxuser.com/V6/showthread.php?t=147772

HMIs are really hot. And usually if you need them, then it's 1,2k or above. Better get a make up girl if you use them.

[Yannick Hagman]

Thanks Erik, not too much wattage though.

[Erik Bien]

not too much wattage though.

They also have High Output versions (http://www.naturallighting.com/web/shop.php?crn=612), but I can't see where they offer them in 220V, sorry ... :(

[Pietro Impagliazzo]

Nice... 100W that can be screwed on a household.

And there's the reflectors you can buy as well.

Good and simple solution for some locations.

[David Rasberry]

The CFL's have about five times the light output per watt of an incandescent. That plus daylight spectrum balance means less total illumination is needed to get good results with a daylight balanced sensor.

[Erik Bien]

I've worked with DayFlos (http://www.eoslightingllc.com/fluorescent/dayflo-fx/2800/) a couple of times now; to their credit, they're inexpensive, come with stands, globes and soft-boxes, store compactly and provide a decent amount of soft daylight output.

On the other hand they're a bit delicately built for hard location use — plastic knobs, light gauge aluminum stands ... fighting other gear hastily tossed in the back of a remote truck they'd lose every time. And compared to a Lowel RifaLight the goofy way you have to build the softboxes each time you set them up seems primitive: you thread loose individual spring rods through little loops in the fabric and catch the ends in holes at the corners of the fixtures and jam them into batten pockets, with a velcro-closed seam and elastic band encircling the fixture giving just enough slack not to tear anything. Then screw in the globes.

At least once together they're lightweight, reasonably robust and "give" enough to squeeze through most doorways. If you're prepared to baby them a bit and deal with the relatively slow awkward setup they're definitely a bargain.

[holy_handgrenade]

Don't overlook compact fluorescent lamps (CFL's) as a potential low cost lighting source. Daylight balanced full spectrum lamps are available in sizes up to 85 watts, equivalent to a 300 watt incandescent lamp for brightness. Some of these are specifically designed for photography use and are flicker free. These with a chinese paper lantern make a great cheap soft light. Smaller ones make good practicals too.


Something to pay careful attention to is not just the color temp, but also CRI. Most of the CFL's I've found that are widely available (Home Depot, Wal-mart, etc) are in the 76-80 CRI range which can affect your shooting.

There's a more in-depth discussion on the dv-forums, with links to suppliers and an article on DV.com as well

http://dv-forums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=3145

These are awesome new things that will greatly help in lighting; but there's a lot of "cheap" stuff out there that wasn't meant to be put to the test of a digital sensor.

I think it was Fullspectrumsolutions.com that had several very high CRI bulbs, but they are a bit pricey - but they're rated at 95+ for some wattages and 92CRI for some of the higher wattages.

When in doubt, always check against a color chart before shooting with your CFL's.

[David Rasberry]

Something to pay careful attention to is not just the color temp, but also CRI. Most of the CFL's I've found that are widely available (Home Depot, Wal-mart, etc) are in the 76-80 CRI range which can affect your shooting.

There's a more in-depth discussion on the dv-forums, with links to suppliers and an article on DV.com as well

http://dv-forums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=3145

These are awesome new things that will greatly help in lighting; but there's a lot of "cheap" stuff out there that wasn't meant to be put to the test of a digital sensor.

I think it was Fullspectrumsolutions.com that had several very high CRI bulbs, but they are a bit pricey - but they're rated at 95+ for some wattages and 92CRI for some of the higher wattages.

When in doubt, always check against a color chart before shooting with your CFL's.

Good points. I have not found high CRI lamps at the bulk retailers. The links I posted all feature a selection of balanced spectrum lamps with CRI of 90 or higher.

[holy_handgrenade]

Good points. I have not found high CRI lamps at the bulk retailers. The links I posted all feature a selection of balanced spectrum lamps with CRI of 90 or higher.

This was more as general knowlege sharing, not knocking you or the links you posted. Just wanted to share the info before someone saw $20 for a CFL was WAY too much compared to the $4 one at walmart :thumbsup:

Another interesting tidbit to share is that I've found that Phillips always posts thier CRI ratings - While GE and Sylvania have the specs available; it's not always on the packaging or easy to find.

Another link too:

http://www.ahsupply.com/36-55w.htm

This is a diy kit - aimed at aquarium setups; wouldn't be that hard to figure out a way to mount it for shooting setups if one was so inclined.

Also some good tech info is located on the page about the bulbs.

[Digital Upstart]

You forgot about the Lowel Rifa Light.

Quick, easy softlight that packs down real small. Possibly one of the smartest lighting inventions ever.

[Yannick Hagman]

Please provide a description in the stile I did. They are unknown in Europe.

[David Rasberry]

You forgot about the Lowel Rifa Light.

Quick, easy softlight that packs down real small. Possibly one of the smartest lighting inventions ever.

Lowell now has a CFL adaptor option for the RIFA light.

Yannick here is a link. http://www.lowel.com/rifa/

Lowell light kits are great lightweight systems that work well and are pretty rugged and long lived.